![]() Telugu ( / ˈ t ɛ l ʊ ɡ uː/ తెలుగు, Telugu pronunciation: ) is a Dravidian language spoken by Telugu people predominantly living in the Indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, where it is also the official language. List of languages by number of native speakers in India You also need to cut the corners of the Nyumba to make it squarer than the other pits so it can be distinguished from the others - again the straight cut router bit was used but a chisel is also fine.Constitutionally recognised languages of IndiaĢ2 Official Languages of the Indian RepublicĮighth Schedule to the Constitution of India This can be done using a chisel if you don't have a straight cut router bit. Using a straight cut router bit I formed the sides of the end pit drawing a straight line to join the three holes and then removing the extra triangles, this was done free hand and is a little tricky to get perfect so take a little bit off at a time until it is straight. I wasn't too worried about getting these all 100% perfect as they will be tidied up in the next steps. The depth was just over 11mm but as each pits needs to hold around 12-15 seeds comfortably this didn't seem deep enough and I didn't want to have to remove too much using the bowl router bit so I went back to the forstner bit and removed a bit more to make each hole around 18mm deep. Once I had completed all holes, including the three overlapping holes for the end pits I checked the depth. Although it makes a bit of a mess as you can see in the photo above. This give me the edge for my two other pattern/guided router bits to follow and also removes most of the waste wood quickly and easily. The center point of the forstner bit lines up with the pilot hole meaning it is really easy to get these in the right place. ![]() Using a 40mm forstner bit in my drill I made a hole about 10mm deep. Using the template meant I could be sure both sides of the board were mirror images of each other. The wood is pictured above, I used some left over wood that was a little damaged here and there but I didn't want a shop bought finished look to my board so this was fine - the flaws in the wood just give it character, I just kept in mind to sand any sharp edges away later in the project.Īfter cutting the two pieces of wood to the correct length, I used the template to drill through every hole to give me a center position for each pit on the actual board. The router bits I used can be seen in the photo above. I also purchased the required bowl cutting bit which had a guide above the cutter as I didn't have one of these. I then marked the sides where the hinge would be and also marked the hole that would be the Nyumba (house) as this needs to be a slightly different shape (square in mine) and I wanted to make sure I knew which it was on each of the boards. I screwed two bits of scrap wood either end of the mdf so the real boards would fit snugly in between and not move around. ![]() Traditionally, Bao Mancala boards don't need these end pits but I thought they would be useful to store the extra seeds in during the initial Namua stage of the game. I drew this out and printed out and from this diagram I then made a template from a piece of scrap mdf and drilled the center hole of every pit and added a third for the end pits. The design gives a width of 130mm but and the wood I had was 134mm accross so I decided to have the extra 4mm on the outside edges as a frame. With 10mm in between each whole and 10mm surround, this means a finished length of around 610mm for each of the two boards. After a number of "test" holes I figured 40mm would work nicely, especially if I then router the tops of the pits to make the top slightly bigger and more bowl shaped and would them 50mm in total. For the actual board I wanted to work out how big to make each of the pits so I could easily get my fingers in to remove the seeds when playing.
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